Nepal

Man kan resa på olika sätt. Flyta med på ytan och vara nöjd med det. Eller så gör man som Andreas Kölling. Stannar kvar för att hjälpa till med att återuppbygga landet som drabbades av katastrofen.

Most of the towns around Kathmandu sit at the bottom of the valley – you have to travel to the valley rim to really get decent views of the Himalaya. Set atop a ridge at 2073m, just off the road to Trisuli Bazaar, Kakani is the quieter, slower cousin of Dhulikhel and Nagarkot. From a series of high points along the ridge, there are magnificent views of the Himalayan skyline stretching all the way from Annapurna to Everest, via Manaslu, Ganesh Himal, Gauri Shankar, Dorje Lekpa and Shishapangma.

Katmandu. Hjärtat i Nepal, huvudstad för Himalaya. Vagabondmedarbetaren Mikael Persson tipsar om allt från bästa äppelkakan till klosterboende och höghöjdskaffe.

With the upgrading of the path to Jomsom (Dzongsam) into a road, growing numbers of travellers are heading north into the mountains to savour the views and clean mountain air. As well as offering a shortcut to explore mountain villages such as Tatopani and Muktinath, which used to take days of trekking to reach, the road opens up opportunities to several trailheads.

Inom kort öppnar en lyxrestaurang utan dess like upp vid foten av världens högsta berg. Här kommer gäster kunna avnjuta en sjurättersmiddag på 5 364 meter över havet. En riktig höjdarupplevelse, med andra ord.

Nagarkot has a reputation as the top spot for enjoying Himalayan views from the comfort of your hotel balcony. Just 20 miles (32km) from Kathmandu, the village is packed with hotels lining a ridge, affording one of the broadest possible views of the Himalaya, with eight ranges visible (Annapurna, Manaslu, Ganesh Himal, Langtang, Jugal, Rolwaling, Everest and Numbur). However, timing is everything, as the mountains are notorious for disappearing behind cloudy skies. The best viewing seasons are October to December and March to April, when clear skies are likely.

Easily the best way to see Nepal is on foot, following a network of trails trodden for centuries by porters, traders, pilgrims, mountaineers and locals traveling from village to village, plains to hills, Nepal to Tibet. Nothing beats walking under your own steam under a crystal-clear Himalayan sky, passing Sherpa, Gurung and Thakali villages, Tibetan monasteries and sacred lakes, while staring at a range of 26,246ft (8000m) peaks.

The view of the Annapurna Himalaya from Sarangkot (foreigner/Nepali Rs 50/20) is almost a religious experience. From here, you can see a panoramic sweep of Himalayan peaks, from Dhaulagiri (8167m) in the west to the perfect pyramid of Machhapuchhare (6997m), the tent-like peak of Annapurna II (7937m) to Lamjung (6983m) in the east. Most people come here at dawn or dusk, when the sun picks out the peaks, transforming them from a purple-pink to a celestial gold. If you feel noisy teenagers are ruining the peace at the viewing tower, try walking further along to the secluded grassy helicopter pad.

The notorious Prithvi Hwy, which winds through 128 miles (206km) of classic Middle Hills countryside, should be seen as more than just a painful bus ride. While many travelers head directly from Kathmandu to Pokhara, they miss out on some of Nepal's finer attractions. This includes one of the country's architectural gems, the historic town of Bandipur, a lovingly restored, picture-postcard village offering European ambience in the middle of gorgeous Nepalese vistas. As you follow the mighty Trisuli River along the Prithvi Hwy, you also pass its many riverside resorts, with their sandy beaches, laid-back charm and rafting adventures. Add the cultural attractions of Gorkha and Manakamana, and you have more than enough reason to get off the bus.

A journey up to the Buddhist temple and Unesco World Heritage Site of Swayambhunath is one of the definitive experiences of Kathmandu. Mobbed by monkeys and soaring above the city on a lofty hilltop, the ‘Monkey Temple’ is a fascinating jumble of Buddhist and Hindu iconography. Even the 2015 earthquake failed to topple Kathmandu's best loved temple, though a couple of outlying buildings crumbled in the tremor.